The grill has been hot since 1952.

We buy AAA ribeyes and give them real heat — nothing clever, nothing fussed. Wednesday lunch has meant a steak here for longer than most of the room has been alive, and Friday and Saturday nights bring the ribeye and the smothered steak out in force. Come hungry; leave slower.

Tables go quickly on ribeye nights — call ahead.

Chapter II — Patience

Hand-rolled sushi, eleven hundred kilometres from the ocean.

A real sushi chef rolls to order here, fresh every day, in a prairie town of eleven thousand. It should not work, and yet it does. Standard nigiri comes by advance reservation — a small courtesy that lets the fish be what it ought to be.

Takeout asks for 2–3 hours of patience. It repays all of it.